Due to the coronavirus pandemic many fashion brands and designers have had to change their plans for shows this year. However, Dolce and Gabbana are one of the only brands to go ahead with a normal fashion show with an audience.
Dolce and Gabbana is an Italian fashion house founded in 1985 by the fashion designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Dolce and Gabbana are considered to be the creators of the Mediterranean style.
From 1985 to 1990, they only focused on women’s clothing, only releasing their first men’s collection in 1990. Since this time they have produced clothing designs for both men and women. More re century they have expanded their brand to include accessories, leather goods and cosmetics.
Dolce and Gabbana have received multiple awards which include best international designers at the Elle style in 2004.
On the 3rd of September 2020, Dolce & Gabbana put on their Alta Moda Show in the gardens of Villa Bardini in Florence. Villa Bardini is a heritage museum in Italy, the show took place in the gardens which overlooks the picturesque city of Florence, this location is beautiful and breath taking. The show took place in the evening, the models walked down the first set of stairs onto a small area, where they posed for a small audience sat either side of the stairs. The models then walked down several steep flights of stairs before posing at the bottom and walking back up the same set of stairs all the way to the top. With the show being set in the evening and it being quite dark this created a calm and serene atmosphere. However, this was in complete contrast to the upbeat funfair type music which started with a loud trumpet section with a small segment of the music more slower pace and calming. The music did not suit the show, collection or setting and was repeated throughout the 37 minute show and was rather distracting.
I believe that the Dolce & Gabbana, Alta Moda fashion show is not in sync with the current time as we are in a pandemic. Some of the models took each man’s hand when going down the stairs and the virus can be spread by touch. With 89 different models taking each ones hand this is not very Covid safe. There is also no social distancing between the models, the men in the suits and the audience members. I also can’t see any evidence where D&G have stated how they made this show possible or if it was Covid secure. A lot of designers and fashion brands have come up with different and unique ways to show there collection online or have an actual show in a safe way. I believe that the men in suits who stood each side of the stairs were unnecessary as most models did not take their hands as they went down and up the stairs. In addition, the stairs were very narrow and models struggled to get past them easily.
Compared to Dolce & Gabbana, Alta Moda Valley of Temples show last year, this year’s show was a bit less organised and extravagant. Last year’s show there was a lot more space and the models were able to walk more freely between each other. I would have expected Dolce & Gabbana have a similar setup with lots of space this year as we are in a pandemic but also because you can see each look clearly. The Valley of the Temples show, seemed more organised with the models more confidently knowing where they were going. This also took place in day light not in the dark so you can see and appreciate all the details of each look.
This collection is a Haute Couture collection, Haute Couture mean high fashion, Haute couture garments are usually made for a client and therefore the looks are one off pieces. Alta Moda is the Italian for high fashion.
This Alta Moda collection consists of 89 different looks.The collection is very elegant and colourful and represents the flair of Florence and Italian beauty. Some of the looks are definitely show pieces whilst others I could see being more everyday wearable looks. This is one of my favourite collection as all the looks are very unique, creative and colourful. This collection is designed as a tribute to Florence with the inspiration coming from the Italian renaissance and the 16th century. During this historical period florentine designers created garments and accessories by combining different materials,, you can see how Dolce and Gabbana have incorporated this inspiration into their collection.
The opening look and the closing look are the most pivotal looks in the collection, as the first look gives you your first insight into a collection and the last look is your last impression and usually is one of the most memorable looks. Look 1 and Look 89 (the last look in the collection) have many similarities, they both have a similar silhouette to a ball gown, both looks incorporate tulle which adds drama to a look, as tulle adds texture and a 3-D element as it is a mesh type of fabric.
Look 1 in this Alta Moda collection is very beautiful, the silhouette is similar to a ball gown with a fitted bodice that comes in at the waist and then flares out into a long skirt. Under the skirt there are lots off layers of netting to give the skirt this unique shape and volume. The dress moves very gracefully with the model. My attention was drawn to the printed landscape of Florence. The design is very detailed and looks like it has been drawn in pencil and then the design has been added to with watercolours and made into a print. The pale pink fabrics allow the landscape printing of Florence to stand out. I think that the two different colours of tulle that come around from the models shoulders and cross over in the middle and then wrap around the bodice is very dramatic. It also has that sculpted aspect with parts of the tulle standing up above the shoulders whilst others parts have been twisted.This look is paired with a flower fascinator with a netting veil and some light red shoes which match the roofs on the landscape print.
Look 89, the last look of the collection is the most stunning look in this collection. The dress’s silhouette is similar to a ball gown with off the shoulder sleeves made from tulle, the sleeves drape naturally on the model. The dress is made from a baby blue tulle and there are many layers of tulle in the skirt to give the dress more volume.
This look has 3-D Flowers cascading down the front the dress, the flowers are mostly light or pastel colours, the flowers are so detailed and delicate that they look like they are real. Each flower has many layers and there is a variety of different sizes.
One look that stood out to me is look 2. This look has a similar silhouette and shape to a kimono with very wide sleeves and the main section is floor length. This look depicts a 2-D landscape of Florence, they have created the landscape using a variety of patterned, textured and coloured fabrics. Then they developed the look by embellishing it with sequins and crystals. Attached at the collar is a long dark red bow.This look is paired with a flower fascinator with a netted veil and red shoes that match the colour of the ribbon bow.
Another eye catching look is look 22. This look is not just a show piece but a everyday look. This design of a long over coat with a long skirt that is fitted at the waist paired with a black cropped bodice is simple but elegant. There are 2-D embroidered flowers all over the coat which are a mixture of pastel colours with leaves that are a variety of different shades of green. Both the coat and skirt look like they are made out of a wool – cotton fabric blend, the fabric is grey and speckled.
This look is finished with a flower fascinator with a netted veil and some black shoes with colourful flowers on them which compliments the look.
The final look 80 is very unique , I think this is the most creative look in this Alta Moda collection and it is definitely a show piece.This look has an unusual silhouette it looks a bit similar to an a-line dress, this dress is made only from 3-D flowers. The flowers vary in shape, size, fabric and colour, no flower is the same and each are very detailed and unique. The flowers are very vibrant and detailed some look like they have been embroidered. My attention was drawn to a flower at the very front of this garment as you can clearly see all the layers of the petals, this makes the flower very delicate and even quite realistic. This definitely isn’t your typical type of dress as it looks very stiff and like there is no movement. This look shows how much Dolce & Gabbana really pays attention to detail with each look. I can see a development from this look to look 89, with the similar 3-D flowers but on a different style of dress.
Overall, this collection shows a clear evolution from the first look to the last look. Each detail and design shows clear development through the looks to the finale of the last look. The collection features a fusion of vibrant and pastel colours, detailed printing and embroidery showcased in a magnificent Italian setting.
Biblography
The Alta Moda event – Villa Bardini – September 2020- full show
(.YouTube – Dolce & Gabbana)
Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_8gfg0OPAk
Alta Moda creations : Florence – September 2020
(YouTube – Dolce & Gabbana)
Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDSzon95cGU
Alta Moda: Villa Bardini
(YouTube – Dolce & Gabbana)
Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjqNTMMU3xM
Dolce & Gabbana – Alta Moda
Spring/Summer 2021 Couture Collection
( Vogue )
Link : https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2021-couture/dolce-gabbana-alta-moda/collection
Alta Moda Colourful Skirt – The Making Of
(YouTube – Dolce & Gabbana)
Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug8olvpcmYk
Alta Moda Florence coat – The Making of
(YouTube – Dolce & Gabbana)
Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vP8AsJy6Gs
Dolce & Gabbana – Alta Moda
( Vogue )
Link : https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2021-couture/dolce-gabbana-alta-moda
Highlights from Dolce & Gabbana’s spectacular Alta Moda show
(Harpers Bazaar)
Link : https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/shows-trends/g33922876/dolce-and-gabbana-alta-moda-2020/
Unpicking Fashion 