Julian Roberts Research

Subtraction Cutting is a method of garment making by removing fabric instead of adding more fabric. Subsequently changing how the fabric drapes on a persons body. This technique was developed by Julian Roberts, who is a fashion designer.

The method of Subtraction Cutting can be used to create garments for both men and women and also many other items.

The method of subtraction cutting is completely experimental and very much trial and error. This method allows for creative freedom as you are not following a set pattern with each garment being very unique and individual. Julian Roberts has even created a book on Subtraction Cutting called Free Cutting.

‘Pattern cutting is not all about mathematics and measurements it’s about space and balance.’

Julian Roberts

This garment is made by Julian Roberts through his method of subtraction cutting. This image has been taken from Julian Roberts book called Free Cutting.

This garment is incredible with each section of the fabric going in a different direction, it does not naturally drape over the models body or show the models figure. This garment shows fabric that has been manipulated and distorted with folds, some draping, gathers and one particular part has been sewn to a right angle so it is pointed, all these aspects have been combined to create this extravagant garment. I love this unique garment as it shows the amazing pieces you can create with this particular technique.

SOURCE: Free Cutting by Julian Roberts
Link : https://download1436.mediafire.com/6926eedwutrg/10d8kgbkp1yxc88/FREE-CUTTING-Julian-Roberts.pdf

In Julian Roberts book, Free Cutting, he uses diagrams (shown below) along with annotations to give examples of subtraction cutting and how to do it.

SOURCE: Free Cutting by Julian Roberts
Link : https://download1436.mediafire.com/6926eedwutrg/10d8kgbkp1yxc88/FREE-CUTTING-Julian-Roberts.pdf

Bibliography

Subtraction Pattern Cutting with Julian Roberts

(The Cutting Class)

Link : https://www.thecuttingclass.com/subtraction-pattern-cutting-with-julian-roberts/

Free Cutting by Julian Roberts

Link : https://download1436.mediafire.com/6926eedwutrg/10d8kgbkp1yxc88/FREE-CUTTING-Julian-Roberts.pdf

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