Pattern cutting and constructing my close fitting bodice block with Pattern Magic – Final Piece

I am using the pattern pieces I made previously and wrote about in a blog called Pattern cutting my close fitting bodice block with Pattern Magic.

I then went on to create a practice toile out of calico which I wrote about in Constructing my close fitting bodice block with Pattern Magic – Toile.

I found making the toile of my bodice very difficult and I have learnt from that how important when making my final piece it is to take my time to perfectly align all the corners and to ensure that I have sewn all the way to each corner before cutting into the seam allowance to release the tension as previously I cut too far into the seam allowance.

Also when sewing my toile I accidentally flipped the front bodice pattern pieces over so when I finished constructing it I realised when you look at the bodice the cube was on the right when I intended for it to be on the left so I will ensure that this does not happen.

I made my practice toile just out of calico but for my final garment I have decided to use a black cotton jersey and a Lycra that is a shiny metallic silver colour. Because I chose to use Lycra I an unable to add interfacing onto the cube sides as during the ironing and fusing process the fabric would melt and ruin. Instead I will stuff the cube with a soft toy filling to give the cube structure once I have constructed my bodice block.

I started by cutting out all of my bodice pattern pieces out of my fabric, I added roughly 1.5cm around all the edges.

The 1st and 3rd front pattern piece and the back pattern piece have been cut out of black jersey and the 2nd pattern piece has been cut out of silver Lycra.

I pinned the patterns down before I drew around the pattern pieces that are being cut out of black jersey with white chalk and I marked on the notches before cutting them all out.

For my 2nd front panel piece, I then turned my silver Lycra fabric over to the plain white side so that will be on the inside of the bodice and I flipped over my pattern piece so that was also on the inside and I pinned it down before drawing around the pattern, drawing the seam allowance on and drawing on notches.

I started to construct my bodice by sewing the one dart on my third front bodice block piece.

I then also sewed the 4 darts on the back panel. I started by sewing the two large bottom darts.

I then sewed the two small top darts.

Now that all the darts have been sewn I moved on to sewing together the 3 pattern pieces that create my front block.

I pinned and sewed it section by section to avoid mistakes, I started by sewing the 1st and 2nd bodice block together. As I went along after I had sewn a certain section I would then cut into the seam allowance to release the tension in the fabric.

After I sewed the last section of the 1st and 2nd bodice block together I realised it seemed all gathered and did not lay flat, so I unpicked that section.

I then re-pinned it and sewed it again and it then laid completely flat and was not gathered.

This is what the outside of the bodice looked like once I had fully sewn the 1st and 2nd bodice block together and the cube shape started to be formed.

I then sewed the 2nd and 3rd bodice block together to form the front bodice block. I used the same process above of going section by section, pinning it, sewing it and then cutting snips in the seam allowance.

This is what the front bodice block looked like when the 1st, 2nd and 3rd bodice block had been sewn together.

I then pinned the front bodice panel and back bodice pannel right sides together.

I then sewed the two shoulder seams.

After that I sewed the two side seams.

I turned the bodice the right way around and then put it on the mannequin to check that the seams where right.

I then pinned and folded the hem before sewing it.

I started hemming the neck hole by cutting snips in the snip in the seam allowance before folding it over twice and pinning it in place, I then sewed it.

I did not like the way the hem on the neck sat as it would not lay flat and it curled. So I folded and pinned the hem again. Once I was happy with that I sewed the hem again.

I then followed the same process I used for the neck hem for the arm holes cutting snips into the seam allowance folding the hem once sewing it and then again and sewing that to achieve a better hem and finish.

I then did the same for the other arm hole.§

Previously I had created my toile out of calico which is quite a strong fabric and it is good at holding its shape and when creating my toile I even experimented with using interfacing to improve the definition of the cube further.

However when I had found that the perfect fabric for my bodice was jersey and Lycra I decided to use them instead of calico, I knew straight away that using these fabrics meant that I could not use interfacing but I did not think that the fabric would have not any structure at all until I started constructing it.

So then I decided that I would stuff the cube with soft toy filling and that will give it the structure. I then stuffed the cube and realised I had no means of keeping the stuffing in as there was almost no excess seam allowance to sew a piece of fabric to secure it.

I decided to cut a cube net measuring 6cm by 6cm which I could tuck in the back of the cube to try and stop the toy stuffing falling out. The netting has not been sewn onto the fabric so it is not secured in place. It is just a method to try and avoid the stuffing falling out, If I had sewn it to the fabric I personally believe it would have ruined the design and look of the garment.

This just holds the stuffing in the cube.

These are a photos of the front and back of the fully constructed final piece close fitting bodice block with Pattern Magic.

Below is also photos of both side of the bodice.

I am really pleased with how my bodice has turned out it did take a little longer than I planned to construct as I wanted to go slowly to try and avoid many mistakes throughout the construction process as it was the first time I had ever sewn a stretchy material like jersey and Lycra. I did not find sewing with a stretchy fabric that difficult.

The bodice is not fully complete yet as I have to still sew french knots onto the bodice block using white embroidery thread.