In order to write a fashion critique I needed to find out what makes a critique, what information is essential to make it informative and what is the difference between a review and a critique of a fashion show.
So I watched ‘How to review / critique a fashion show ?’ to get a better understanding. How to review / critique a fashion show? ( Justine Leconte officiel – YouTube ) Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bfv8rifSc_k
A critique is not an opinion
A critique is an explanation of what you saw, combined with background research on the designer and their previous collections
If you provide context in your critique it helps the reader have more of an in-depth understanding of the show, collection and designers inspiration.
Try not to get distracted by the overall performance of the show and focus on the garments as they are the most important part of critique.
The first and look are the most important looks in the show.
Use emotions and adjectives to describe the looks and write them down whilst watching the show.
When all the models walk at the end of the show, write down whether there is a theme and is there a good balance and mixture throughout the collection of silhouettes, fabrics and styles.
Once you have finished watching the show find the photos of each look in the collection and look at all of the looks side by side.
Your critique should reflect your journey of watching and collecting information about the show so you describe the show for someone that has never seen it.
Due to the coronavirus pandemic many fashion brands and designers have had to change their plans for shows this year. However, Dolce and Gabbana are one of the only brands to go ahead with a normal fashion show with an audience.
Dolce and Gabbana is an Italian fashion house founded in 1985 by the fashion designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Dolce and Gabbana are considered to be the creators of the Mediterranean style.
From 1985 to 1990, they only focused on women’s clothing, only releasing their first men’s collection in 1990. Since this time they have produced clothing designs for both men and women. More re century they have expanded their brand to include accessories, leather goods and cosmetics.
Dolce and Gabbana have received multiple awards which include best international designers at the Elle style in 2004.
On the 3rd of September 2020, Dolce & Gabbana put on their Alta Moda Show in the gardens of Villa Bardini in Florence. Villa Bardini is a heritage museum in Italy, the show took place in the gardens which overlooks the picturesque city of Florence, this location is beautiful and breath taking. The show took place in the evening, the models walked down the first set of stairs onto a small area, where they posed for a small audience sat either side of the stairs. The models then walked down several steep flights of stairs before posing at the bottom and walking back up the same set of stairs all the way to the top. With the show being set in the evening and it being quite dark this created a calm and serene atmosphere. However, this was in complete contrast to the upbeat funfair type music which started with a loud trumpet section with a small segment of the music more slower pace and calming. The music did not suit the show, collection or setting and was repeated throughout the 37 minute show and was rather distracting.
I believe that the Dolce & Gabbana, Alta Moda fashion show is not in sync with the current time as we are in a pandemic. Some of the models took each man’s hand when going down the stairs and the virus can be spread by touch. With 89 different models taking each ones hand this is not very Covid safe. There is also no social distancing between the models, the men in the suits and the audience members. I also can’t see any evidence where D&G have stated how they made this show possible or if it was Covid secure. A lot of designers and fashion brands have come up with different and unique ways to show there collection online or have an actual show in a safe way. I believe that the men in suits who stood each side of the stairs were unnecessary as most models did not take their hands as they went down and up the stairs. In addition, the stairs were very narrow and models struggled to get past them easily.
Compared to Dolce & Gabbana, Alta Moda Valley of Temples show last year, this year’s show was a bit less organised and extravagant. Last year’s show there was a lot more space and the models were able to walk more freely between each other. I would have expected Dolce & Gabbana have a similar setup with lots of space this year as we are in a pandemic but also because you can see each look clearly. The Valley of the Temples show, seemed more organised with the models more confidently knowing where they were going. This also took place in day light not in the dark so you can see and appreciate all the details of each look.
This collection is a Haute Couture collection, Haute Couture mean high fashion, Haute couture garments are usually made for a client and therefore the looks are one off pieces. Alta Moda is the Italian for high fashion.
This Alta Moda collection consists of 89 different looks.The collection is very elegant and colourful and represents the flair of Florence and Italian beauty. Some of the looks are definitely show pieces whilst others I could see being more everyday wearable looks. This is one of my favourite collection as all the looks are very unique, creative and colourful. This collection is designed as a tribute to Florence with the inspiration coming from the Italian renaissance and the 16th century. During this historical period florentine designers created garments and accessories by combining different materials,, you can see how Dolce and Gabbana have incorporated this inspiration into their collection.
The opening look and the closing look are the most pivotal looks in the collection, as the first look gives you your first insight into a collection and the last look is your last impression and usually is one of the most memorable looks. Look 1 and Look 89 (the last look in the collection) have many similarities, they both have a similar silhouette to a ball gown, both looks incorporate tulle which adds drama to a look, as tulle adds texture and a 3-D element as it is a mesh type of fabric.
Look 1 in this Alta Moda collection is very beautiful, the silhouette is similar to a ball gown with a fitted bodice that comes in at the waist and then flares out into a long skirt. Under the skirt there are lots off layers of netting to give the skirt this unique shape and volume. The dress moves very gracefully with the model. My attention was drawn to the printed landscape of Florence. The design is very detailed and looks like it has been drawn in pencil and then the design has been added to with watercolours and made into a print. The pale pink fabrics allow the landscape printing of Florence to stand out. I think that the two different colours of tulle that come around from the models shoulders and cross over in the middle and then wrap around the bodice is very dramatic. It also has that sculpted aspect with parts of the tulle standing up above the shoulders whilst others parts have been twisted.This look is paired with a flower fascinator with a netting veil and some light red shoes which match the roofs on the landscape print.
Look 89, the last look of the collection is the most stunning look in this collection. The dress’s silhouette is similar to a ball gown with off the shoulder sleeves made from tulle, the sleeves drape naturally on the model. The dress is made from a baby blue tulle and there are many layers of tulle in the skirt to give the dress more volume.
This look has 3-D Flowers cascading down the front the dress, the flowers are mostly light or pastel colours, the flowers are so detailed and delicate that they look like they are real. Each flower has many layers and there is a variety of different sizes.
One look that stood out to me is look 2. This look has a similar silhouette and shape to a kimono with very wide sleeves and the main section is floor length. This look depicts a 2-D landscape of Florence, they have created the landscape using a variety of patterned, textured and coloured fabrics. Then they developed the look by embellishing it with sequins and crystals. Attached at the collar is a long dark red bow.This look is paired with a flower fascinator with a netted veil and red shoes that match the colour of the ribbon bow.
Another eye catching look is look 22. This look is not just a show piece but a everyday look. This design of a long over coat with a long skirt that is fitted at the waist paired with a black cropped bodice is simple but elegant. There are 2-D embroidered flowers all over the coat which are a mixture of pastel colours with leaves that are a variety of different shades of green. Both the coat and skirt look like they are made out of a wool – cotton fabric blend, the fabric is grey and speckled.
This look is finished with a flower fascinator with a netted veil and some black shoes with colourful flowers on them which compliments the look.
The final look 80 is very unique , I think this is the most creative look in this Alta Moda collection and it is definitely a show piece.This look has an unusual silhouette it looks a bit similar to an a-line dress, this dress is made only from 3-D flowers. The flowers vary in shape, size, fabric and colour, no flower is the same and each are very detailed and unique. The flowers are very vibrant and detailed some look like they have been embroidered. My attention was drawn to a flower at the very front of this garment as you can clearly see all the layers of the petals, this makes the flower very delicate and even quite realistic. This definitely isn’t your typical type of dress as it looks very stiff and like there is no movement. This look shows how much Dolce & Gabbana really pays attention to detail with each look. I can see a development from this look to look 89, with the similar 3-D flowers but on a different style of dress.
Overall, this collection shows a clear evolution from the first look to the last look. Each detail and design shows clear development through the looks to the finale of the last look. The collection features a fusion of vibrant and pastel colours, detailed printing and embroidery showcased in a magnificent Italian setting.
Biblography
The Alta Moda event – Villa Bardini – September 2020- full show
Chanel – Spring summer 2020 – full show (YouTube – FF Channel) Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sswx70AmvxI I like this Chanel fashion show as it seemed to have an overarching 80s theme with jackets that had large shoulder pads and a lot of tweed. I did not like look number 29 as I did not think that it fitted in with all the other pieces in the collection.
Chanel – Spring summer 2019 – full show (YouTube – FF Channel) Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_jcDodwWYI I absolutely loved this fashion show with the replication of a beach setting and the models walking on the sand, they transport you to the beach with the show. I think that Chanel are trying to show the accessibility of this ready-to-wear collection in its ideal setting.
Alexander McQueen – Womenswear spring/summer 2020 (YouTube – Alexander McQueen) Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cdkLfp0i-E This collection has a lot of wide black belts, blazers and oversized puffy sleeves which I loved, each had a slight detail which linked each look in the collection together whilst still being unique and individual.
Alexander McQueen – Fall winter 2020/2021 — full show (YouTube — FF Channel). Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M81GPiAPSoI This collection had a lot of stand out looks, some of which are very detailed and other looks that have small details that are extremely effective. One of my favourite details that I liked in this collection is the belts. The belts are worn with a range of dresses and blazers, it is a common theme within this stunning collection.
Stella McCartney — Fall winter 2020/2021 — full show. (YouTube — FF Channel) Link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHh-_74Pnik I found that this collection did not have any real overarching theme that runs through it, other than many looks being very oversized but each look is very unique. However, this collection has many incredible looks, my favourite look was the jumper bodice with sleeves with a skirt made out of a fleece like material, this is a look that is both made for the runway and could be worn as an everyday look.
Another brand similar to Moschino who are using their creativity to show off their new collection is JW Anderson. Due to the coronavirus pandemic fashion brands have had to come up with inventive ways to share their collections with people all over the world.
JW Anderson has created 37 different looks for the spring summer 2021 collection. JW Anderson has created a look-book kit, which is very interactive. The look book kit has images of the 37 looks, which you can cut out and place in front of different backgrounds photos or different coloured papers, which are included in the kit. This continues on a similar theme to the JW Anderson show-in-a-box collection they did earlier In the year. This collection gives everyone a chance to get involved and use your own creativity to create a background or setting for each look wherever you are in the world. This will enable people a more personal experience similar to being at a actual fashion show rather than looking at everything digitally. I think JW Anderson have really thought about how they can replicate the fashion show experience in your own home. It is a really unique idea that shows they know what their audience like and what experience they want from a fashion show.
Jonathan Anderson is a fashion designer and the founder of JW Anderson, which is a British fashion label. Jonathon Anderson said his inspiration for this collection came from a quote by Oscar Wilde, which is ‘The secret of life is in art’.
One of my favourite looks was look number 24, I really like the rich green colour of the oversized scarf/cape and the silk like material that drapes naturally over the black dress. I also love the white tassel detail and the choice of background for this photo as It fits in with the setting.
Another look that caught my eye was look number 18. This look stands out as it is very vibrant and the fabric looks very light and flowing. I don’t like the collar of fabric around the neck because it appears misshapen and I think it lacks structure. However, overall this is a very bright and unique look.
The final look, that caught my attention was look number 37, I love the simplicity of the the two different colours in the same textured fabric with the 4 different buttons at the waist. Also, how the top comes in at the waist to then join with the long skirt.
Overall I think that this collection is very unique and varied and the way that JW Anderson has made the look book kit to allow people to interpret each look and pair it with any background they think suits the style.
Due to the coronavirus pandemic fashion shows all over the world have been unable to operate in the usual way, with models walking down the catwalk and people from all over the world coming to watch the brands and fashion designers collections. Many brands and fashion designers have been coming up with creative and innovative ways to show their collections. Some brands choose to do their show digitally, whilst others still want to do it physically in a Covid safe way. Some even do both.
A brand that really stands out is Moschino, who have chosen to use puppets to show off their collection. They have used marionettes which are puppets that are controlled by strings.. Moschino is Italian fashion house and is a high-end brand. The collection was originally planned to be released at Milan Fashion week. Jeremy Scott who is the creative director at Moschino, wanted to use his collection to transport people to a whole new world, so everybody who watches the show would forget about all the problems at this current time. Jeremy Scott even has a puppet version of himself who introduces show which is called “No strings attached“.
The puppets walked down a catwalk wearing the spring/summer 2021 collection with a puppet audience which included Lookalikes of the Vogue editors Edward Enninful and Anna Wintour.
Moschino started by creating 40 life sized looks before creating tiny versions of each garment and accessory. I loved the fashion show, which I thought was very effective, especially the attention to detail on all the puppets garments and the fact that the garments even had functional zips is very surprising. You can also see all the hems and darts and to recreate a garment on such a small scale is very difficult but they have also managed to get the puppet garment looking exactly the same as the full size version. The puppets did not distract you from the garments at all. I think that if we were still able to have fashion shows in the usual way, we would have never seen anything like this. It allows Moschino and other brands and designers to show their creative and stand out ideas in a different way and reach out to a larger audience. As they have had to really think outside the box of ways they can still put on a fashion show.
One of my favourite looks in this collection is look number 8. I love the light blue with the silver contrast on the pockets and hem of the trousers. The dramatic ruffle of fabric on the right shoulder really makes the look. If the look did not have the ruffle it would not be as dramatic and so eye catching. The attention to detail is very clear on both the puppet and on the full size version.
Another look that I found very interesting was look number 23, I loved the layering of this dress as It has two completely different fabrics that compliment each other. The belt on the dress I think really brings the look together. I also absolutely love the flowers that are cascading down the dress they are so detailed and beautiful, it also shows a continuation of the flowery theme. I think this dress is very impactful and has clearly each small detail has been well thought out.
The final look that I really caught my eye was number 35, I like this look because I like the simplicity of using one fabric and shaping it and manipulating it to create a look without adding lots of embellishments and embroidery on to it. I like the creative use of a fastening as a shoulder strap. The fastenings look similar to a belt fastenings, I also like the detail of the belt and zip. It is hard to believe that, the belt and zip are fully functional as the garment is so small the zip and belt must have been very tricky to sew. This really stood out to me in this collection as it seems so creative and interesting whilst also being made out of only one fabric.
Overall I think that Moschino’s spring summer 2021 collection and fashion show is very creative, unique and uplifting. It shows that brands and fashion designers are able to adapt to working during a pandemic and are still able to put on a fashion show, whilst showcasing collections and revealing a whole new side of creativity in a brand.
Unpicking Fashion 