Once I had made my basic sleeve block, I decided to try to make mini templates for different types of sleeve block. Creating mini sleeve blocks uses less paper and therefore creates less waste whilst allowing me to experiment with manipulating sleeve blocks.
I cut out a mini template and then traced 3 patterns onto pattern paper before cutting and creating different shapes from there. I used a pattern cutting book for reference so that I could look at the diagrams to see what manipulated sleeves there are, what they look like and how to pattern cut different styles of sleeve block.
The first mini sleeve block that I created was a sleeve that was slightly flared from the elbow.
The next sleeve block that I created was a sleeve with a flared section.
The last sleeve block that I created was a sleeve with a mock cuff.
I started the construction process by folding the sleeve in half and pinning it in place.
I then cut a lot of little snips in the seam allowance at the top of the sleeve block where it will meet the bodice block, this allows you to create a nice curved seam over the shoulder that lays flat with little or no puckering.
I then placed it into the armhole in my bodice before pinning all the little snips to the bodice arm hole trying to spread them out to create the curve. Then I sewed along the seam allowance attaching my sleeve block to the bodice. Once I had finished sewing and removed it from the machine, I realised that I had somehow not only sewn the sleeve but I had sewn a bit of my bodice to it as well. So then I got some assistance to help me unpick the sleeve so I could re-sew it as I had used quite a small stitch length. After this mistake I have learnt that I need to use a slightly bigger stitch length, as mistakes are inevitable and this makes it easier to unpick.
So I re-sewed it and this time the sleeved turned out better than last time but I had a bit of puckering so I unpicked sections that were puckered instead of unnecessarily completely unpicking it. I then re-pinned it and sewed it again, I has happy with this finished sleeve after a couple of attempts.
I found the sleeve block the hardest block to sew, as it is very fiddly to attach to the bodice block. On the first sleeve it took several attempts to get it right and a lot of unpicking. I sewed the second sleeve a different way which I found easier but still took a couple of attempts to get right. For this I had to unpick the side seam on my bodice and the other sleeves seam that I had sewed earlier.
I then drew on my bodice where the armhole is 1.5cm seam allowance. So I can make some cuts in the seam allowance.
I sewed it once and decided that I had a couple of odd pucks, so I unpicked a couple of sections and then re-sewed those sections. After I re-sewed it I was a lot happier with the curved shoulder seam.
This is my finished sleeves attached to my bodice block, that I had made previously.
Constructing and attaching a sleeve is very tricky and takes a lot of practice to get perfect with no puckering and for it to be very neat and even.
For my first time sewing sleeves I am happy with the final result as I now appreciate how difficult it is to attach a sleeve to a bodice, if I constructed a sleeve block in the future I would use the second method.
Once I had made my basic bodice block, I decided to explore manipulating and eliminating darts on mini bodice block templates. Creating mini bodice block patterns to trail this on uses less paper and therefore creates less waste whilst allowing me to experiment with manipulating and eliminating darts. Manipulating and eliminating darts allow you to move and change the darts to different points on the bodice or to fit in with the design so they are less noticeable and more natural.
You can also move your dart 1 cm in from the point so the dart has a more natural finish rather than finishing at a sharp point,
The first method I used in order to manipulate and eliminate darts is pivoting.
Sample 1 …
I then tried another method of manipulating and eliminating darts where you make cuts in the template.
Sample 2 …
Sample 3 …
Sample 4 …
This bodice template incorporates the darts into the design therefore they are less obvious and more natural.
I started constructing my tailored trouser block by sewing all the darts on each panel. I then pinned the front trouser panel to the back trouser panel I repeated this for the second leg and then sewed them together so that I had two trousers legs.
After that I folded it in half with the nice side in the middle and then sewed on the red line before repeating to create the other trouser leg.
I then placed one trouser leg inside the other trouser leg.
I then sewed on the red line to join the trousers before turning them the right way around. After this I started drawing the waistband onto the calico and then I cut it out and lay it on the trousers before pinning it to the top of the trousers and then sewing it in place.
I then folded it over and ironed inflate before pinning ready to sew, I then sewed my invisible zip into the back of the trousers. Once I had sewed the waistband I realised that I forgot to line up the top of the invisible zip with the top of the waistband. Next time I need to ensure that they are lined up before I sew the zip in place.
After this I sewed the last section of my trousers before rolling up the bottom of my trousers as they were slightly too long. I tried them on after I had finished and they were a bit too big at the waist and slightly too long in the leg.
Overall, I am very pleased with the final result of my trouser block.
I used this pattern to make a tailored trouser block. I used my own measurements and applied them to the pattern below, I then drew my pattern with my measurements on to pattern paper.
I copied my pattern onto pattern paper so I have a separate front template and back template also so I have a block pattern and a working pattern. A block pattern is the pattern that you don’t cut out or change. A working pattern is a pattern that you cut out, use and change including changing the darts.
This is a photo of my block pattern.
This is a photo of my working pattern.
I then pinned my templates to the calico and cut two front panels and two back panels, I drew around the template before drawing on 1.5cm seam allowance as the pattern does not include it.
This is my 4 template pieces cut out ready for construction.
Before I started constructing my bodice and sewing the darts, I folded the darts on my pattern paper to see how the darts would look once I had sewn them.
I then started to construct my bodice by sewing all the darts. I sewed the darts on my front panel first and then on the two back panels. For this first example we are not hemming the armholes, the neck or the bottom edge. So I cut off the seam allowance for the armhole and the neck otherwise when I sew the panels together the arm hole and the neck hole will get smaller.
Next I pinned the two back panels either side of the front panel and then I sewed them together creating a side seam. After this I sewed the shoulder seam
For this bodice block I did not sew up the back of the bodice block as this bodice is being used as a template so it is not meant to be fully functional. As the back is not sewn up, this makes it easy to take it on and off a mannequin to look at the darts and the fit.
I am pleased with the outcome of my first bodice block.
I found trying to conceal a normal zip very difficult as you have to try to line up the centre of the zip with the centre of the seam.
First cut out 2 pieces of fabric that are the same size and ensure that the fabric is at least 3cm longer than the zip.
Then draw a straight line in pencil about 2cm in from the edge of the fabric on one of the pieces of fabric.
Now pin the two pieces of fabric together near the pencil line to ensure the fabric doesn’t move when you are sewing it.
Next get your zip and lay it on your pencil drawn line and then mark where the end of the zip is.
Before you start sewing make sure your sewing machine is set to a longer stitch length so you can sew a tacking stitch.
Then sew on the straight line to the point that was marked where the zip ended.
Now change the sewing machine stitch back to normal stitch length to sew the rest of the seam.
Next iron the seam open flat before lining the zip up with the centre of the seam and then secure it in place with masking tape.
Then attach the zipper foot onto the machine, so you can sew as close to the zip as possible this will help conceal the zip.
Now turn the fabric over so you can no longer see the zip and then sew along one side of the zip across the bottom and back up along the other side.
Finally, get the unpicker to rip the stitches to open the seam and reveal the zip.
I was not that happy with my first sample as the zip was not aligned with the centre of the seam and it was a bit too far over to the right. So I thought I would do a second sample and try to make it more aligned with the centre, I tried to secure it a bit better with more masking tape.
I am a lot happier with the way my second sample turned out as it is aligned better with the centre of the seam. I think to get a perfect concealed zip it takes a lot of practice so I think I just need to do more samples to improve.
I used this pattern to make a close fitting bodice block. I used my own measurements and applied them to the pattern below, I then drew my pattern with my measurements on to pattern paper. I found trying to change the measurements to my own personal measurements a bit tricky as the instructions were more complex.
I have also learnt some key words that are essential in the pattern and garment making process. I found out that the nape to waist measurement is taken from the prominent bone at the back of your neck to the waist. I also learnt about how to measure the armscye depth, this measurement is used to determine the depth of your garments armhole.
After this I drew on some extra darts onto the pattern paper so my bodice would be fitted at the waist. I then labelled my pattern before cutting it out, so I now have 2 separate pattern pieces.
Once I had cut out my pattern pieces, I then pinned my pattern onto the calico, I drew around my template and then drew on my seam allowance, as the pattern does not include seam allowance. I then cut out the pattern pieces my front pattern piece is cut on the fold and then I cut out 2 back pattern pieces.
I found this seam the easiest to sew out of the three different seams I have sewn, as you don’t have to make loads of cuts in the seam allowance or sew a curve you just sew two straight lines which is fairly simple. I am very pleased with my finished angled seam, as I have never sewn one before and the seam lays very flat and is quite neat.
Unpicking Fashion 